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Ambient elegance and Wallonian meatballs at Cowfish


Cowfish is a great place for many reasons. For me, their strongest pull is that they serve gorgeous Boulettes Liegeoise. Juicy, tender boulettes smothered in sweet, onion-packed sauce with a perfect level of thyme and allspice, and good fries on the side. It takes me back to Liège, the city of exaggerated infrastructure and enormous tower blocs whose only (although very sturdy) forgiving feature is meatballs. I suppose nothing can beat the real thing, but this is a very close second, and you don’t even have to set a foot in the Primark city of Belgium.


Cowfish, instead, is located in the chic quarter opposite Porte de Namur. It’s ambient, cosy and plays post-rock while serving up an abundance of well-cooked, neatly presented, and varied food. You must arrive hungry, as the smallest food option is two starters + one main.

Sashimi burger

We tried their baked aubergines, Chilean ceviche, shrimp croquettes and grilled camembert for starters, all of which were excellent – especially the savoury, almost dry aubergine and the intensely limey ceviche. My main of boulette leigeiose are, as you have read, incredibly satisfying. Unfortunately the salmon sashimi burger was less so, with a clear fishy smell about it. But all was forgiven for the good service, and surprisingly decent price tag – 29 euros per person. Cowfish is a great choice for a hungry stomach, and it balances lots of food with elegance in an unusual way. Highly recommended.


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